(This was written years ago....) Toronto has lately become the most fascinating city if by that you mean of the TMZ variety; our now ex-mayor recently went back to being a bombastic city councilor and vowed in Churchillian terms to "never surrender...." What was I saying?- TORONTO: city of my youth...recently I partook in that singularly NYT experience of "discovering" a neighbourhood like Lewis and Clark, finding real artisanal cheeses for sale, on the street...traiding simple beads in an open air market like Marrakech... (thank you Brian Williams). Ossington, or properly Trinity-Bellwoods has arrived friends, your farm has arrived at your table....For The New York Times Travel.